The Smart 2.0is Mammut’s assisted belay device. Super Friction: Edelrid 'Mega Jul' Belay Device Reviewĭurable and multifunctional, Edelrid’s Mega Jul belay device makes belaying rock climbers safer and more efficient. Plus, its stainless steel construction promises longevity and shows Edelrid’s company-wide efforts to improve the sustainability of climbing gear. And tilting the device requires switching hand position.Īt 3.10 ounces, it’s hard to beat the versatility and low weight of the Mega Jul Sport. Slack is dished out quickly and smoothly, but lowering the climber is not as silky as devices that utilize a cam. The assist mechanism requires no moving parts, relying on grooves that engage with the belay carabiner to “lock” the rope.įeeding slack on lead and lowering is done by pulling up on the generous thumb loop, which keeps the hands in the familiar tube-style position and orientation. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). We got a chance to try it at one of the world's foremost climbing gyms. Petzl Introduces the newest member of the GRIGRI family, the GRIGRI+. Check It Outįirst Look: Petzl 'Anti-Panic' GRIGRI+ Belay Device And it’s more comfortable in the hand, featuring a more ergonomic design and construction that prevents the rope wearing into the device. The GRIGRI+ has evolved alongside modern, smaller-diameter ropes, with an ideal operating range of 8.9 to 10.5 mm. This optimizes the GRIGRI+ for top rope or lead climbing. If the lever is pulled down too hard, it engages the assisted braking.Īnother update: You can change the amount of friction required to cam the rope with a switch. This model has the added security of an anti-panic handle. The GRIGRI+ feels predictable and familiar. But afterward, feeding slack, belaying, and catching falls feels like - well - a GRIGRI. Proper technique must be mastered for this belay device. Petzl’s GRIGRIi+ is the third iteration of the device that started it all. The Best Assisted-Braking Belay Devices for Rock Climbing Petzl GRIGRI+: $150 So whether you’re a climbing first-timer looking for the best option or a seasoned veteran belaying your partner’s project, read on for the best assisted-braking belay devices of 2018. They’re a step up in climbing comfort when spending long days at the crag. Assisted-braking belay devices allow for superior holding power when catching and holding climbers. While there are minimal belay devices, like the classic Black Diamond ATC, we focused this review on more nuanced belay devices. And best of all, there are a lot of options to choose from to meet your specific needs. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing.Īn essential piece of every climber’s kit, belay devices are necessary to climb safely and handle rope. In the spirit of full disclosure, it was provided to for the purpose of reviewing.Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. More info and tech specs can be found on the BD website.ĭisclaimer: Wait! Before you go handing over your credit card number, ask yourself, do you really need to buy more new stuff? If so, this product is worth a look. Ideal uses: single pitch sport or trad climbing, gym climbing For me, however, it won’t be replacing my GriGri anytime soon, but certainly another valuable tool to have in the quiver. For people looking to save weight on big cragging approaches, or those who don’t like GriGris, it’s worth taking a look. Also occasionally the rope would get out of the main track, and then it does not feed nearly as smoothly.īottom line: I liked it more than I thought I would, thanks to the smooth, controlled lowers and the ability to easily feed rope quickly, and in my opinion it’s the best of these style of belay devices. This can get old if your partner is working a route for any length of time. What I don’t like: It’s not great for extended dogging sessions, as you actually have to hold the rope tight, unlike a GriGri where you can apply light pressure without taking your hand off. It feeds out rope smoothly and quickly, and it works on ropes from 8.7 – 10.5, though the smaller diameter ropes require more diligence when braking. The lower is smoother than other similar devices that I’ve used thanks to the molded plastic “handle” that allows you to easily control the speed of the descent. There are no moving parts, it’s easy to set up, and not catastrophic if you setup the rope in the wrong way. The ATC Pilot is Black Diamond’s offering, and for those who prefer this style of belay device, it may be the best in its class. There have been a variety of assisted braking devices to hit the market in the last couple of years, most with the goal of being a lightweight and simpler alternative to the GriGri.
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